Mountain Bike 101

Mountain Bike 101

Summing it up for you newbies

For the last couple years I have embarked on a mountain bike learning curve.  I did this voluntarily.  I like to learn.  I didn’t expect my learning to be reinforced with so much blood and so many contusions, but nevertheless I have learned a great deal.

I’m going to give you the Reader’s Digest version.  (Does that mean anything to anyone anymore? Reader’s Digest?  Does that even exist?) Ok, It’s a old colloquialism from when we used to read and we used to kill trees, grind them up and print stuff on their guts with toxic inks made from mercury.  Basically it means “Summary”.

First, It is a little bit about the bike.  Despite what Lance said, you need a functional mountain bike to even stand a chance.  You can fake it on the road with an old ten-speed, but in the woods you are toast if you don’t have a functional bicycle.

Mountain biking is a relatively new sport and there have been rapid advances over the past few years in bike technology.  You should be able to obtain a decent mountain bike, as a beginner for $500 or so.

I’m not going to go into the infinite complexity of bicycle purchase – it’s a bit like the ‘what kind of running shoe should I get?” question, but it is very important that it have a lightweight frame.  You are going to be dragging this machine up and down and in and out and it needs to be reasonably light.

You should probably get front suspension.  This allows the front end to compress when you hurtle with nauseating speed down hills, over rocks and through muddy creeks.  The front suspension keeps you from getting thrown into the trees.

In the old days you used to only be able to get 26 inch wheels.  Now the 29 inch wheels are very popular.  I have ridden both and I think the 29ers are much more forgiving for beginners.  They might be a bit heavier, but they have more stability and roll over obstacles much easier.  That being said I’m on the larger end of the size scale so the bigger bike works well with my frame.

But I have gone too far already into the infinite and unanswerable bike question…so…let’s assume you get a decent bike and you are ready to venture out into the woods.

Tip Number 1.

Middle-Middle.  For the most part, unless you’re on a hilly or technical course you want to stay in the middle ring in the front and in the middle of the cassette in the back.  Try to ride in that zone. You should only have to change the front ring up or down in the more extreme ascents and descents.

Tip Number 2:

Careful with the front brake.  Mountain bikes are configured differently than road bikes.  You’ll find that in a normal seated position your weight is shifted forward over the front wheel.  If you pull the front brake you might go over the handle bars like superman.  Practice applying both brakes in a balanced way so that you can maintain control of the bike.  A common beginner scenario is to launch yourself.

Tip Number 3:

On the down hills get behind the seat.  This is very important and will also help prevent calamitous crashes.  Since the mountain bike is weighted forward you need to stand up on the pedals and move your center of gravity backwards on down hills.  Many times I will actually be crouched in the pedals with my hind-quarters behind the seat and low.  In extreme situations you may actually have your chest laid on the saddle.

Sometimes on shallower hills I will grasp the back of the saddle between my thighs in a crouch.  When you are going downhill you are going to take the abuse with the front shocks but also in your thighs as you are in the crouch.  You MUST un-weight the front wheel, because if the front wheel jams into an obstacle while you’re going down hill at 30 mph you are dead.

Tip number 4:

On the up hills get on the seat-point.  Mountain bikes are designed with very low gears that allow you to climb almost any hill.  The problem is when you crank going up a steep hill the front wheel wants to come off the ground.

You need to move your weight forward on the saddle so you are sitting squarely on the point of the saddle while you’re cranking up the hill.  Move your weight forward so you can maintain traction on the drive wheel while keeping the front wheel on the ground.

Tip number 5:

Look down the trail.  Don’t look at where you are now.  There’s nothing you can do about that.  You need to look down the trail and see what’s coming.  Mountain biking is fairly fast and you need to decide what you’re going to do before you get there.

Choose a line and stick with it.  One of the big differences between trail running and mountain biking is that you have to look much farther down the trail and choose a line.  Once you have chosen that line you are committed and you need to make the best of it.  In Mountain biking much of your success or failure will rest on whether you chose a good line or not.

Tip number 6:

Keep pedaling.  Seriously, it hurts to bail out on a mountain bike.  First and foremost your engine, your speed and your power will save you.  When you are half way through a deep puddle that comes up to your thighs – keep pedaling.  When you’re half way through a precarious rock garden that is scaring the crap out of you – keep pedaling.  When you’re half way up a sketchy hill with lots of loose rocks – keep pedaling.

Tip number 7:

Approach obstacles with controlled speed.  A good amount of velocity cures many form problems.  Slowing down makes everything hurt more.  Pedal like a maniac when you see the big log or that big drop or that hairy rock shelf coming.   Before you know it you’ll be through and clear.  If you go into it slow, you’ll crash.

That’s it folks.  That’s all I have for you.  There are thousands of nuances and codicles for these tips but these should be enough to get you out and riding.

Don’t be afraid.  Mountain biking is not all crazy death-defying stunts like you see on youtube.  It’s a great workout and an awesome way to get some calories burned.  I’m the least coordinated person you’ll ever meet and I love it.  Give it a try.

Chris,